Vit C is the most abundant antioxidant in human skin, it is part of the complex of enzymatic and non-enzymatic antioxidants that coexist to protect the skin from reactive oxygen substances (ROS) such as superoxide ion, peroxide and oxygen. These free radicals initiate reactions that alter cell DNA, cell membrane cell proteins, including collagen. Vit C protects the skin from oxidative stress by donating electron sequences to neutralize free radicals.
Collagen is one of the main components that make up the skin tissue, Vit C is essential for its biosynthesis, as it serves as a cofactor for the enzymes responsible for its stabilization and cross-binding of collagen molecules and in turn stimulates the expression of its gene.
Vit C is a powerful depigmentant, it inhibits the action of the enzyme tyrosinase responsible for the formation of melanin, responsible for the spots on the skin.
ACTIVE FORM VIT C ( L-ascorbic acid ( LAA))
L-ascorbic acid ( LAA) is the chemical form of ViT C and the synthetic active form. At the topical level it has a high efficacy, but it also has certain disadvantages:
Ascorbic acid is very unstable, when exposed in light / and air is not only inactivated, but also oxidizes very quickly becoming dehydrocarbic acid ( DHAA), which is easily broken down into other very irritating acids for the skin.
Another important aspect for the effectiveness of ascorbic acid is pH. In order to penetrate our skin and be effective, a low pH (acid) of less than 3.5 in the formulation is required, which can cause irritation in the skin. This also creates complications in the conservation of the formulation, especially with natural preservatives that work best at a pH between 5 -5.5. Irritations and inflammatory implications resulting from such low pH can compromise the skin and alter its immune function if cells are induced by UVA rays.
STABLE FORMS OF VIT C
To help the degradation of Vit C, aggregate compounds are generated, which are not as sensitive to light and air and are less irritating to the skin and more stable with Ph.
Of the different derivatives we find: Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Calcium Ascorbat, Sodium Ascorbate, Sodium Acorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbyl Glucosyde.
In our WHITEPRO blisters we use Ascorbyl glucosyde, stable against oxidation, formulable at neutral pH and with good tolerance in all skin types, even in the most sensitive.
Its functions include the following:
- Tolerance: thanks to the fact that it is not conditioned by the PH in formula and works to neutral PH, it is the most suitable form for sensitive and reactive skins that do not want to dispense with effective anti-aging treatments.
- It is stable and of lasting effect: ascorbyl glucoside is hydrolyzed in vitamin C and glucose by α-glucosidase, a coexisting enzyme in cell membranes, the result is a healthier skin with a younger appearance for a prolonged period of time.
- Depigmentant: Has the ability to suppress melanin synthesis in melanocytes by attenuating and matching skin tone.
- Sunscreen: its antioxidant effect fights against post-solar oxidative damage and inflammation.
- Antiageing: improves expression lines and wrinkles as it promotes collagen synthesis by fibroblasts of the skin, increasing elasticity and flexibility over a prolonged period of time.
All these benefits provided by ViT C stabilized in the form of Ascorbyl Glucoside, are enhanced by the synergy of other assets such as Niacinamide, Azelaic Acid, Arbutin, Acmella Extract, Glutathione, ,Inulin, Alantoine, Emblica among others, which you can find in our complete WHITEPRO formula.
Pharmacist, Msc in Cosmetics and Dermopharmacy.
Regulatory affairs and cosmetovigilance expert.